Article on the website of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs in Taiwan. Embassador Samuel Chen is visiting the Jacobsen family on board DHARMA BUM III. At the bottom of the article are two links to pictures.

Liping, Aurora Ulani, Holg, the First Lady & the President of the Republic of Kiribati

The Happy People of Kiribati

The Happy People of Kiribati

Latitude: 01°22.03'N   Longitude: 172°55.90'E

 

When we left Musket Cove in Fiji, we expected a not-too-strenuous trip of around 12 days, while allowing for a few extra days of calms.  We were quite looking forward to the voyage and tried to forget the rather harrowing experience of getting thrown onto the rocks in Lautoka, when the anchor didn't hold and the alarms inexplicably didn't come on.  Now we know why they didn't ...

 

So when the first three days brought nothing but winds on the nose and squalls with maximum windspeeds of over 40 knots, we thought that things soon would get better.  We would be able to dry our soaked mattresses in the following calm and then enjoy light and variable winds for the rest of the way.  And, indeed, we got a calm which lasted about a week and things started to look up again, when we noticed that the current was setting us too far to the west and then things started to go wrong in earnest. 

 

We had given up fishing when our lures disappeared not ten minutes after we had thrown them in the sea, but that was the least of our worries.  Winds picked up, almost exactly from the direction where we wanted to go.  Unfortunately they were accompanied by squall after squall after squall.  Some of these were nothing more but very heavy rainfall, but some others were so violent, that we feared for our mast.  We had been fixing our main roller-jib since Day 8, when it had ripped in a squall with a maximum windspeed of 45.5 knots and I had to remove one of the sail-battens at the same time, as the just repaired mainsail had chafed through in the same place again.  On Day 13 this little job became a lot less important as we had been crashing into about 7 Beaufort and in a lull I heard a sound outside.  First I couldn't find out what it was, but when the wind came back, my ears told me soon enough.  One of the blades of our windgenerator had broken off and somehow flown against the wind into our cockpit.  As there wasn't any sun to be seen, we immediately had problems with electricity as the autopilot needs to run on Response Level 3 in these conditions.  That, together with our fridge, sucked the amps out of our batteries far faster than we could put them in without running the engines. 

 

Also, with all the water sloshing around, our bilge pumps were busier than usual which needs plenty of power as well.  The next day our trampolines disintegrated, the port-center bilge pump stopped functioning and so did the foot pump.  I was slowly getting fed up with all this.  Way too early!  The next thing I discovered was my whole library swimming in plenty of seawater and just a little while after that a mighty squall with a maximum windspeed of 56.7 knots hit us where the boat stopped reacting to the rudder although we had two reefs in the main and only a tiny triangle of the Mylar-jib unfurled.  That time I really got scared. 

 

When the squall had finally departed, I checked the foredeck and discovered that our anchor chain had partially disappeared through the holes where the water is supposed to go and were acting like a big drogue under the boat.  No wonder I couldn't steer properly any more!  So of course I had to crawl into the anchor locker and pull up the chain hand over hand, while being thrown all over the place and smashing various parts of my body into all kinds of hard (and very dirty) surfaces.  Did I mention that I was upside-down?  I invented all kinds of brand-new and very strong swearwords while I got the chain back up and then repaired the damage as best as I could to prevent the same thing from happening again. 

 

Day 16 found me steering almost all night, although I had the mainsail all the way down and the jib only partially unfurled.  The reason were squalls all over the place and I was unable to tell whether they were "good" or "bad" squalls.  Losing the mast was on my mind every minute of that very long night.  Perhaps I was overreacting because of the 56.7-knot-squall, but when I later heard that another catamaran had indeed lost her mast in similar conditions, I was grateful that my stick still stood. 

 

The next day I stood at the mast when the jib sheet suddenly caught me across the face and my sunglasses (which are regular glasses with a double dark mirror-coating) got thrown over the foredeck.  Of course a wave broke on deck at the same time, so that my precious sunglasses were already hanging half overboard and I scrambled to retrieve them before it was too late.  The salt and the water had made the deck quite slippery and before I know what was going on, I managed a major crash-landing which ended in the life-lines and a major shock for myself.  Another excellent reason for wearing a harness at all times when on deck.  I don't think one has even the slightest chance of survival if one actually gets thrown overboard in rough seas like that.  Even with the sails down, the windage of a modern cruising catamaran is such, that it takes a very good swimmer to get back to the boat in time.  Never mind wearing boots and foul-weather-gear. 

 

This kind of stuff went on and on for three weeks and when our GPS died and the dinghy-cover tore to pieces, I was ready to swear that only madmen go to sea for pleasure and where was the pleasure anyway?  I was also very glad that we have 3 independent GPS systems on board.  Very very glad. 

 

When we finally dropped the anchor in Tarawa, we were stupid with fatigue and exhaustion.  I just went to bed and resolved to work on the unbelievable mess the next day. 

 

The next day was Sunday, 11/11/2007.  Again the weather turned squally and bad, so that I got nervous and started up the engines and the chartplotter.  False alarm, the anchor seemed to be holding.  Later, at around 6:15 p.m., it wasn't a false alarm anymore and remembering our lesson from Lautoka all too well, we started both engines and both chartplotters.  You never know.  Then things got really interesting.  A big cargo ship next to us started dragging, while I had to turn up the revs to assist our anchor.  We had dragged a few meters, but were stable again, when we saw that more and more of the fishing ships were in trouble themselves.  A big catamaran-ferry dragged past us and disappeared behind us somewhere.  Behind us was the reef with numerous wrecks on it.  An ultra-modern fishing boot drifted sideways towards us, but there was absolutely nothing we could do.  Maximum windspeeds were "only" 43.2 knots, but there were too many ships about, water was flying all over the place and I couldn't see.  Fortunately the ship got under control again.  A gray police-vessel was crashing into the pier as waves had reached a height of about two meters and were breaking in the shallow lagoon.  I saw an ambulance there and lots of people trying to prevent further damage, but it took about two hours until the boat managed to leave the pier and head out into the coral-head-studded lagoon. 

 

Meanwhile I was shivering, scared, exhausted, and from constantly steering to keep our bows into the wind, I experienced something which I have never experienced in my life before.  Stone-cold sober I couldn't hold a beer in my hands anymore.  It kept slipping out of my grip and finally I realized that I had to put it down somewhere and give my muscles a break.  By that time I was ready to swear any oath that I would never ever have anything to do with boats, the sea and similar things again.  Grab an oar and walk uphill in hilly country until people ask what that funny thing is you are carrying.  Then you know you are far enough away from the sea and can settle down safely. 

 

By the time the wind went down to 30 knots a semblance of normality returned and after watching things for a while, I switched off the engines. 

 

The next day we went ashore to clear in and when we asked people here, whether that kind of weather was normal at this time of the year, every single one answered with an emphatic "Yes!"  We almost went back to the boat to leave at once.  Like my friend Jörn Grote in Trinidad likes to say:  "Paradise is getting crowded.  Let's go to hell!"

 

Later we found out that nobody understood our question and the custom here in Kiribati is to answer yes to questions you don't understand.  In fact, it hadn't rained in about four months before our arrival and they called that squall "The Storm".  The navy vessel had actually been thrown on the reef, but apparently they got it off again without too much damage. 

 

The first thing we noticed in Betio was an amazing amount of people.  There were houses, huts, shacks and stalls simply everywhere with hardly enough space to squeeze through.  How did they all find enough to eat?  And yet, they all looked well nourished tending to compact.  And almost everybody was smiling, laughing, singing or chattering away happily.  Prices were comparable with Tahiti, if not higher, and yet the average wage per month is somewhere between 300 and 400 dollars.  It takes extended families with at least one wage-earner abroad or in the government here to make ends meet and the current estimate is that one of the money-making I-Kiribati actually supports 20 people in his extended family. 

 

When we finished with customs and the barefoot officer had inspected DHARMA BUM III, we set off to the neighboring island of Bairiki, where immigration is to be found.  We got our passports stamped and found out that we were allowed to stay for two months and since we were already on the island, we went in search for the Taiwan embassy. 

 

Everybody seemed to know where it was and people told us to look out for a beautiful flower garden.  We found it soon enough and were welcomed with open arms by ambassador Samuel Chen, first secretary Wallis Zhou and the rest of the staff.  "You did well in coming here right away," ambassador Samuel Chen said.  "Isn't this like coming home to mother after a long stay abroad?"   He showed us around his beautiful garden where some of his artwork is displayed as well, as Samuel Chen likes both sculpting and painting. 

 

Wallace Zhou immediately arranged a meeting with VP Temaia of the Betio Shipyard, when he heard that we had sustained some damage on the way up and invited him and us to lunch at "Aboy's Kitchen", a Chinese restaurant in Betio.  We were very grateful and quite amazed at the speed at which things were happening.  Lunch was just over, when ambassador Samuel Chen told us, that secretary Louis Liu would take us to the Taiwan Technical and Agricultural Mission and Research Farm.  They are part of the International Cooperation & Development Fund, which we knew about from Panama, where our friends Kunmu Zheng & Meihua Lin work for the ICDF as well. 

 

It was quite a long drive and on the way we saw that it wasn't only Betio which was highly populated.  All of South Tarawa seemed to be one big village, with one house standing almost wall-on-wall to the next one.  Many of the roofs were thatched with Pandanus leaves and almost all the houses stood on stilts, with pigs and chickens living under them.  Breadfruit trees grew all over the place, which not only explained where some of the food was coming from as the fruit of the Pandanus palm is edible and quite tasty as well.  The trees, Pandanus and coconut palms provided shade on top of everything, which is most welcome. 

 

At the farm we met Farmer Wu, who has worked his miracles in similar projects for over 40 years.  According to him, the soil here is the worst he has ever encountered, which is one reason why they also raise pigs and chickens to produce organic fertilizer.  The water simply disappears in the porous ground and when one digs only a meter and a half one encounters salt-water which seeps in from the ocean.  Also all the plants have to be protected with wire-mesh against rats, crabs and whatnot.  And yet...  He manages to grow the most sweet and tasty tomatoes imaginable, several kinds of cucumbers, cabbages, radish, chives, green onions, squashes, watermelons, and so on.  It is absolutely astonishing!  He heaped some of the produce into our hands until we had to tell him that we simply couldn't take any more as it would certainly spoil and go bad on the boat.  And our friend Herbert Salvenmoser, who had come here on his trimaran BAMBOO last season, had said that vegetables were very scarce here?  And for that matter, we had heard that we had to expect calms as well as very hot and humid weather.  In actual fact, we feel chilly after sunset in the cockpit and before sunrise we have to wrap ourselves in the sheets to avoid the cold. 

 

By now we've been here for almost two weeks and we have been almost overwhelmed by the people here.  Zeppo and Fiji-Ben from Betio Shipyard helped to remove the ripped trampolines and were just as happy and smiling as everybody else.  The little boats dangerously overloaded with singing I-Kiribati always come close to wave, cheer and shout and even the foreigners here seem to be infected with the general good cheer.  This is not to say that there aren't any problems here.  Quite the contrary, actually.  Overpopulation, underemployment, poverty,pollution, alcoholism, lack of education, incompetence at all levels, the rising level of the water etc etc all give rise to concern.  But the barefoot people here seem to deal with things differently and so far it hasn't stopped them from giving all the outward appearance of happiness which reminds me of the barefooted Tongans in Ha'apai in 1987.  Still, many dream of leaving the islands one day. 

 

Wallace Zhou had mentioned that there would be a run of the Kiribati Hash House Harriers ("The drinking club with a running problem!") the following Wednesday and invited us to come along.  I had run a few hashes in Taipei, which were affairs of two to three hours under the hot subtropical sun, in mountainous terrain and extremely humid - not to say dripping - jungles.  Very interesting, and usually followed by beer-drinking sessions of apocalyptic proportions which only ended when everyone was in a near-catatonic state. 

 

Things were slightly different here.  A short walk of about an hour followed by a can of XXXX-Bitter or two with most of the Hashers being diplomats, foreign aid workers, lecturers of the University of the South Pacific (USP), I-Kiribati of all walks of life and their friends.  I spent most of the time talking to Mike, who is the director of the US Peace Corps here.  Liping and Aurora Ulani were talking to a former Miss Kiribati and her equally beautiful friend.  We got our first introduction into expat-life here and were pleasantly surprised.  Also we received invitations left, right and center, so that we could already see our social life taking off like an Ariane 5 rocket. 

 

Sure enough.  Saturday the Taiwan Embassy arrived with seven people to check out how we lived on DHARMA BUM III and later on we sat with Samuel and Wallace in the cockpit while our Rhino kerosene pressure lantern provided some pleasant light.  Our guests shared one can (!) of beer and the conversation was lively and interesting. 

 

On Sunday we took part in the celebrations for the 150th anniversary of the Kiribati Protestant Church, or KPC, as it is called here. We were introduced to the President of the Republic of Kiribati and the First Lady and couldn't quite believe the amount of food which was provided for everybody.  At least five well-sized pings on a spit were devoured which were accompanied by hundreds of other dishes of every variety of island fare imaginable.  It was delicious and naturally I made the mistake of many a newcomer and ate way too much. 

 

The next Hash happened to take place at the research farm and I talked a long time to one of the Aussie-lecturers at USP and a Kiwi called Greg, who was very interested in our sailing experiences and turned out to be the High Commissioner of New Zealand.  He also invited us to enjoy his swimming pool and offered to drive us to the Thanksgiving dinner which Sheila from the US Peace Corps had arranged.  We intended to go back on the beer truck with I-Kiribati Molly and her daughter and found Tab from Tuvalu sitting in the loading area.  We drank a few more beers on the way back and when we went past "The Captain's Bar", Tab decided that we had to have a few more drinks over there.  Tab is a civil engineer cum businessman and as we could plainly see, he is also an avid sportsfisherman.  According to the board on the wall, his sailfish holds the current local record. 

 

Sheila is originally from the U.K. and spent the last 29 years in around 30 different countries, mostly in Africa.  She experienced the horrors in southern Sudan, where whole villages were massacred, her ambulance was machine-gunned and she decided it was time to leave.  She also enjoyed the beauty of Malawi, where the Chens as well as the Cais (who run the ICDF here) served for a time as well.  I found her life-story fascinating and could have listened to her for the rest of the night, but unfortunately it was getting late. 

 

The Chinese have a story about "hypnotizing people with poisonous legendary insects" (guhuo) to make them do what they don't really want to do.  This is a bit how we feel at the moment, since the trip up here and the squall after our arrival were so bad that we had resolved to sail to Australia, pay the hefty import duty and hand over our boat to a yacht broker in order to sell it.  But then we wouldn't meet all these friendly and interesting people anymore, now would we?

 

Anyway, right now we are busy trying to find a used Garmin GPSmap 175 chartplotter, a 12-Volt motor for our Lofrans Leopard anchor-windlass, seals for our hatches, seals for our toilets, circuit breakers for our 12-Volt system as well as trying to repair the trampolines, sails, dinghy-cover and about a zillion other things.  That should keep us busy for quite a while, especially as we also like to spend some time with The Happy People of Kiribati.

 

--

Holger Jacobsen
S/V DHARMA BUM III
SHIP-IN-TRANSIT
c/o Embassy of Taiwan
P.O. Box 104
Bairiki, Tarawa
Republic of Kiribati
+68693662

RSYC

31 August 2007

Royal Suva Yacht Club, Suva, Fiji

 

Our stay in Apia, Samoa, was rather short when we found out that there wasn't a real German consulate over there in which I could obtain a new passport.  We did manage to tour the island with our friends from PADDY WEST'S and we got to know the local Trans-Ocean guys as well as Cap'n Fatty Goodlander and his wife on WILDCARD.  All in all it was a pleasant stay, but we were itching to get rolling as we still had a lot to do with the cyclone season approaching. 

 

So, after about a week, we headed out to sea again.  Unfortunately the weather was the most unpleasant in a long time.  All the way to Suva, Fiji, we encountered one heavy squall after another.  Very strong winds and plenty of rain made everything into a chore and of course things started to break down absolutely everywhere.  On the very last day, we lost the topping lift and a big shackle sank into the depths, which ruined my mood even further. 

 

For a change, we looked forward to the end of the trip instead of enjoying the passage.  Naturally we arrived here at night, the next day being a Sunday.  It really is strange.  It has been like this every single time for the last two years.  So we slowed down the boat to arrive at the entrance in daylight and went through the pass under engine alone.  

 

We had to re-anchor three times to satisfy the regulations from Quarantine, the Harbor Master and the Pilot, who needed a lot of space to turn container vessels around.  Slightly exasperated we finally found a spot in a depth of 20 meters - definitely not ideal conditions.   

 

On Monday we waited all morning for the officials, but when they finally arrived, everything was so easy and the Fijians were so full of good cheer, that the bill of US$ 67 for the ROBERTS DUNSTAN, which brought them all over to the DHARMA BUM III dampened our spirits only a little bit.  We were eagerly asking questions which were mostly concerned with the coming cyclone season and what to do about it.  New Zealand, Australia, Fiji, North Pacific or what? 

 

That question got settled very soon as Fiji wouldn't allow us to stay that long anyway.  Unless, that is, we flew out and came back.  As this was going to cost around US$ 5,000 for the three of us, it was not really an option.  Reports from Australia and New Zealand ranged from bad to horrible, so that we weren't all that interested in this option either.  We don't like the cold at all, we don't enjoy dealing with excessive red tape and regulations and we sure as hell don't want to spend a small fortune to buy materials and even more money for mediocre to bad workmanship.  The power of prejudice, you might say, but as the reports from other yachties were pretty much the same, it would be folly not to heed them. 

 

First thing we did, was to get the ball rolling to get new passports for Aurora Ulani and me.  Then I trudged off to buy a new 6 Volt battery, which cost about twice as much as it had cost in the Caribbean.  We had heard that the catamaran NYEKI had gone onto the reef from the outside because the ranging lights had been changed from red to blue and this again confirmed to us that it isn't such a good idea to enter an unknown harbor at night.  It seems as if almost everybody does this, though, rather than spending another night at sea.  Not us, that's for sure!  We manage to hit reefs in broad daylight.  ;-)

 

We were in for a bit of a shock, as we found out that even the biggest travellift in Fiji can't take us out of the water.  The reason is our beam of 6.39 meters.  The widest slipway here can only handle 20 feet.  In the end we had no option but to use the government shipyard, which costs about 100 bucks a day.  And since we would be spending quite some time up there, this was very bad news indeed. 

 

By now we had made our decision to spend the cyclone season in Kiribati, Micronesia and the North Pacific.  This decision lent a new urgency to our repair efforts and soon I had a date set for the haul-out.  We waited for the divers for an hour or so and when we were finally positioned in front of the lift - not so easy with the wind from the side and between numerous wrecks and commercial ships - we found out that the big winch on the slip wouldn't work.  The tide was now against us, another ship waited for the crew and so we had to go back to our old anchorage in front of the Royal Suva Yacht Club.  Here you pay five bucks a day, but the advantage is that it is in walking distance of the city. 

 

In the afternoon Felipe from the shipyard told us that the motor on the winch was not repairable and that they would have to get a new one, put it in and make it work.  No idea how long that would take.  While all this was going on, I was busy making inquiries about all kinds of things and opening up a local bank account. That alone took about three full days, as the documentation required is quite mind-boggling.  All to ensure that I am not supporting any terrorists or to prevent me from money-laundering.  "What money?" I was thinking.  It laundered itself quite effortlessly out of my pockets and into those of the government (almost 40% import duty on my batteries) or the various shops where I bought stuff for my boat.  Who needs piracy when one can get all the money one needs from the yachties quite legally?  Jokes aside, yachties have now definitely become a financial resource and (truth be told) lots of them are throwing money at their boats as you wouldn't believe.  For the rest of us, life is becoming increasingly difficult. 

 

The broken motor in the winch turned out to be a blessing in disguise, as it has been raining pretty much non-stop since that interesting day.  Today I bought 100 meters of 12 mm double-braid rope for DHARMA BUM III, I had a hole in one of my blocks enlarged (local shackles won't fit) and traced several electrical problems on board.  Still, the to-do list is uncomfortably long and in about six weeks we want to head out of here.  Not much time, but we don't want to experience something like our friends Karl & Libu Hauschke on their ROSINANTE when they got hit by hurricane DEAN in Martinique recently.  No, we've got to go and we've got to go where it is warm and where the South Seas haven't only lost their innocence a long time ago but where they aren't beginning to lose their charm as I write this. 

DHARMA BUM III in Pago Pago, American Samoa -- 29 July 2007

Pago Pago, American Samoa  --  29 July 2007

 

When we went through the pass at Taapuna in Tahiti, we got the wind on the nose immediately.  Also, it rained all the time and was quite cold.  Soon the wind turned into a "Maramu", which lasted for a couple of days.  The heavy-duty hinge on our freezer door broke in all this rattling chaos, but after two days Maiao Island lay astern.  When the wind got lighter I tightened my shrouds by three turns each, as I didn't like the way the leeward one was swinging about.  The wind continued to lessen, so that we only made 41 miles on the seventh day. 

 

The lack of wind didn't bother us one bit, we didn't use the engine, but concentrated on good food like wonderful Shuijiao, which reminded us of our life in Taiwan.  From LADY JANE III, we finally know that we definitely fall into the category of "foodies".  I guess there are worse categories to fall into. 

 

Rather unpleasant was the steadily growing list of things to repair or replace.  The preheat on our port engine didn't work anymore, so I took the whole shebang out, deposited it in strategic places in the cockpit and rewired it all.  After I put it back in, everything worked just fine again.  At least one of my batteries must have died on me, but I wasn't all that keen on dealing with battery acid while being thrown all over the place.  So I decided to leave things alone until we were in port.  There were leaks from the cooling water, the topping lift had almost chafed through at one of the sail batten flaps and two of the battens continued to work themselves loose.  One of my V-belts couldn't be tightened anymore and so we never were in danger of boredom. 

 

On the ninth day we experienced a gale, which had me sitting in winter clothes and raingear at the helm trying to make sure that we took the seas from behind.  Maximum windspeed was 46 knots while our maximum boat speed was 11,2 knots, which is actually rather slow for these conditions.  After about three days things returned to normal and we set our watches to UTC - 11 hours, the time in American Samoa.  It coincided exactly with our position as noon was at 12:00 o'clock. 

 

On 16 July a particularly heavy squall with lots of rain came upon us, when I noticed big greenish shapes in the water near us.  They were about twice as long as our boat, perhaps 24 meters and they could definitely move faster than us although we were moving at a good clip.  I shouted "Thar she blows!" when the first one surfaced and I immediately noticed a comparatively small sickle-shaped dorsal fin on the grayish black body.  This was one of the biggest whales I had ever seen.  When I later checked with the help of various books and an encyclopedia, I came to the conclusion that we were dealing with a pod of Fin Whales (Balaenoptera Physalus), the second biggest beings on our planet.  The biggest ones ever are the Blue Whales, which weren't even surpassed by the dinosaurs. 

 

Unfortunately we couldn't continue watching these amazing creatures as the weather worsened and I had to give full attention to my boat.  My favorite big rum and tonic glass jumped out of the kitchen shelf and shattered on the galley floor.  Two sail battens came loose and three mast sliders disintegrated, so when the weather got better I took down all sail and sewed on new ones with thick straps.  So much for not reefing when the weather gets worse. 

 

After I had inspected my new bruises, cuts et cetera I continued to sleep in a twenty-minute rhythm.  I was just too tired to stay awake continuously, but the cellphone didn't only serve very well as a mini torchlight, but as an egg-timer, stopwatch, calculator, computer game and so on as well.  If we ever come back to Trinidad, we'll spend another ten bucks and buy two more. 

 

On the eleventh day we finally got what Bernard Moitessier in "Sailing To The Reefs" called one of the essentials of a sailor's paradise.  A steady four Beaufort and blue skies.  Years ago, I considered Force four as barely enough for real sailing.  These days it suits me just fine.  Interestingly enough, I leave up a lot more sail than I used to.  On this trip I hadn't reefed even once, gale or no gale.  I simply cannot imagine capsizing this boat without the help of a massive sea.  First all kinds of things would break (see above) and then I would imagine the stick to go overboard.  Not that I want to experience that!  I guess the essential difference to the Prout Snowgoose 35 DHARMA BUM I  catamaran and the Ed Horstman Tri-Star 38 DHARMA BUM II trimaran is the seven meters of beam and the resulting ratio on our boat.  It makes it so much more stable and as the storm of Colombia showed, so much safer in really heavy weather as well. 

 

The next day we had a delicious cabbage-lasagna and Aurora Ulani asked us: "How could the GPS and the autopilot possibly communicate with each other?!?  After all they have neither a mouth nor ears!" 

 

The last few days were characterized by confused seas and unpleasant motion, but finally American Samoa came into sight and just before midnight we took down all sail to wait for daylight.  The next morning we motored into the harbor, avoiding three canoes and getting circled by the big Police-RIB.  We anchored in ten meters of fish soup and waited until Monday to clear in.  Otherwise we would have to pay hefty overtime fees. 

 

We soon realized that Pago Pago is a lot better than its reputation.  Sure, the fish factories dominate the harbor, pollute the water and the smell is sometimes quite strong.  But the Samoans are very friendly and where we expected a small city of some kind, we only found one very long village which stretches from one end of the island to the other.  Buses are inexpensive, so are the goods and the hospital.  We all went to the dentist to have our teeth checked and cleaned.  For the whole exercise we paid all in all only US$ 60 and got tooth brushes, a dentist's mirror, plenty of dental floss and dental floss threaders for free.  As the dentist was so nice, we invited him on board. 

 

~~~~~

 

Unfortunately the weather continued to be not good at all and when we came back on a particularly rainy day, we noticed that another boat had drifted into a derelict.  When we arrived at DHARMA BUM III, we noticed that we had dragged as well.  We started our engines and as soon as the anchor was up, the wind started blowing in earnest.  This was decidedly not fun, as none of our GPS systems could get a fix - we are in a volcanic caldera after all - and daylight was fading fast.  On the VHF we heard that at least two other boats were adrift as well and when I looked at our anchor, I found it fouled with plastic bags and clay-like mud.  I tried to anchor twice more, but we weren't successful.  Apart from the other boats, mooring balls, the coastline and a reef, we also had to contend with submerged buoys, which were threatening to foul our prop.  Rain was pouring down, we were totally drenched and shivering in the cold. 

 

When two boats advised us to pick up a mooring ball further up the harbor, we finally gave up on anchoring and risked the 100 dollar fine for moving our boat without prior written permission by the port authorities.  Better to get fined than to smash into something. 

 

In this wind it proved spectacularly difficult to pick up the mooring and we had to try numerous times.  The ball was so heavy that I lost it repeatedly in the water before I could secure our boat.  Then the boathook fell overboard which I could only save through a risky acrobatic maneuver.  When finally all was set, I was quite ready to sell my boat to the first bidder. 

 

It continued blowing all night and since I don't trust moorings, I slept badly.  Having a mooring disintegrate once tends to seriously undermine the faith in those things. 

 

The next few days were spent with various repairs and tests.  I replaced two float switches and acid-tested my batteries.  Sure enough, one of them was bad.  I also checked cables and cleaned connections, but unfortunately I still can't start the starboard engine unless the port engine is already running.  This holds true even when I connect the starter motor directly to the battery.  So, either the starter batteries are seriously damaged from the short circuit in Papeete or the starter motor is.  We'll have to sort that out. 

 

Because of the passport issue and Liping's need for a visa, our original plan of going through the Torres Strait this season can not be realized any more.  We will have to spend a longer time somewhere, preferably in a place where we can haul the boat and repair all the damage properly and inexpensively.  Maybe that will happen in Fiji, but more likely we will be forced to sail into the cold and to New Zealand.  There are only two months left before the cyclone season starts, so we'd better organize things in a hurry.  Maybe we do that in Western Samoa or in Fiji.  We might even make a little side trip to Tonga, but we haven't decided anything yet. 

 

 

HolgTahitiPhone: +689232394 with VoipStunt or Skype-Out

HolgTahitiPhone: +689232394 with VoipStunt or Skype-Out

Pix

http://picasaweb.google.com/krautholg/

Here we can upload pix for free - but only as long as we have enough
electricity. :-)

Galapagos to Tahiti -- 8. June 2007

While in the Galapagos Islands DHARMA BUM III regularly got invaded by sea lions.  Aurora Ulani never got enough of them, but her parents viewed the invasion in a slightly different manner.  Some of them grow to gigantic proportions and their teeth are impressive.  When you are trying to chase one away from the cockpit table with a broomstick, it does not take a major feat of imagination to see the roles reversed.  Especially if it is an enraged bull that keeps bellowing at you.  Also they exude quite a formidable stench and leave the remains of their dinners all over the place.  Up to seven of these animals were on board at the same time and sleep often became elusive.  Still, it was all in all an unforgettable experience. 

 

The marine iguanas did indeed look like prehistoric monsters while the boobies went dive-bombing right next to our hulls.  The water wasn't exactly warm, so we didn't do all that much swimming and snorkeling.  I didn't have the time anyway.  Between walks to the harbor master, immigration, the electrician, FedEx and so on, there was pretty much no time at all.  Since everybody seems to find all kinds of excuses to obtain a visa extension, the officials didn't quite believe that my auto-pilot really was broken.  Finally I had to physically remove it in order to present it to them.  Meanwhile the new one was stuck with customs in Guayaquil and only after I had paid around US$ 400 in import duty was it released.  After "only" 20 days I could finally take it on board. 

 

That turned out a very good thing, as the repaired one lasted exactly 19 hours.  Boy, were we glad that I had dug deep into my pockets to have that new linear drive flown in!

 

The trip itself proved to be an extension of our "doldrums sailing" which got us to the Galapagos in the first place.  Except for one occasion we had very light winds or no wind at all, so that the passage was very slow.  And very comfortable.  We like it that way.  In fact, this kind of sailing is exactly what we like best. 

 

Atuona in Hiva Oa had changed quite a bit since our last visit.  A breakwater divides the bay in half, there is a dredging operation going on and while we were the only boat on Valentines' Day in 1995, there were so many of them there, that it was impossible to find a safe place to anchor.  The night before a heavy swell had stood into the bay and several boats got in serious trouble, losing their anchors, hitting bottom and one seriously damaging the steering.  Also, because Easter Weekend had just begun, the gendarme told us to wait until Tuesday before we could do the paperwork.  I told him that we'd be back on Tuesday, but had no intention of risking our boat in the meantime.  Instead we went to Hana Moe Noa in Tahuata, which was one of our favorite spots from the last trip. 

 

Alas, even here the avalanche of boats was relentless.  Apart from that, the place was as we remembered it, but after we had sewn up our sails, we went on to see our friends in Vaitahu.  As the new breed of "cruisers" apparently has very little interest in meeting anybody except other "cruisers", there were almost no boats in front of the village.  (One "cruiser" said to us: "Vaitahu?  The village?  What for???")  Right up our alley.  And our friends Koki, Titi & Teaiki were absolutely delighted that we had come back and kind of adopted us right away into their families.  In fact, it was even better than on the last trip!  Aurora Ulani played with their children, we went up to the mountains together to harvest pistachios, helped making sun-dried bananas and watched how the Noni-leaves were dried.  We went on a mammoth picnics together and when we finally had to say good-bye, we asked ourselves if we weren't making a big mistake in leaving. 

 

Our friends showered us with bananas, pomelos, limes, oranges, cucumbers, guavas, coconuts, a gigantic piece of Emmental cheese, dried bananas, shell necklaces and recordings of Polynesian music.  Whenever we protested that we simply couldn't eat that much (Polynesians manage to consume astonishing amounts of food in short order), they simply ignored us and told us that it would be rotting on the ground there.  Said Koki:  "And if you really can't manage, sun-dry what you can and give the rest to the poor guys in the Tuamotus.  They only have coconuts, fish and fafaru (fermented fish) over there."

 

So sad to leave such a wonderful place...

 

Our voyage to Takaroa was just as peaceful as the ones before and before we had even made fast to the pier, we had verified that our friend Pita was still living on the island.  I hitchhiked out to his pearl-farm right away and had the joy to watch the surprise and the delights on Pita's face.  He just couldn't believe that we really had come back.  And just like our friends in Tahuata, so it was on
Takaroa.  In all those years, Pita had made friends with exactly one other boat.  There wasn't a single boat to be seen inside the lagoon. 

 

One of the reasons for that we found out the next day when we went through the narrow pass and towards Pita's pearl farm.  Almost all of the surface of the lagoon was covered with buoys, some above and many others under water.  What's more, they were connected with ropes in all directions and if there were no buoys, there were sure to be coral-heads.  Further in things got so thick, that we didn't dare to explore without a local guide. 

 

Pita repeated the astonishing feat of walking with our anchor all over the bottom, but this time he decided to put it right into his "house reef" and then anchor the four corners of DHARMA BUM III to coral heads.  We were uncomfortably close and normally I would not have risked it.  But Pita assured us that we would be safe and also it meant that we had our own private dock and house just a few meters away.  From then on we spent almost all the time together with Pita and his new girlfriend Lucie.  The welcome of these true Polynesians was almost overwhelming.  Nowhere else on this planet have we even come close to this kind of hospitality and generosity. 

 

Unfortunately all was not well with Takaroa itself.  Alcoholism and drug-abuse were on the rise, necessary work wasn't being done and the whole island seemed to be on a slow slide downhill.  While in Tahuata, the influence of the catholic church seemed to have a stabilizing effect, here on Takaroa the waning influence of the Mormon church made itself felt in many ways.  Almost every house and hut boasted a satellite dish and the populace attacked the store of Hinano Beers which came by ship until on the whole island there was no more beer to be had.  Flights to Papeete had increased to three times per week and many people went to Tahiti quite often.  Not so in the Marquesas.  In Tahuata the situation seemed to be improving from 12 years ago, but the Tahiti Black Pearl boom - while bringing in lots of cash when it lasted - had destroyed something vital on Takaroa. 

 

Lucky Luke was still very much alive, and so was his friend Merere, but while they had been playing music on a variety of instruments before, these days all the young guys were listening to imported music on their laser discs and MP3-players.  While people in Tahuata seemed to be happy and content, they appeared hopeless and resigned to their fate in Takaroa.  The young women left in droves, while the young men had to go somewhere else to find wives.  Pita's wife had gone to New Caledonia, his parents were in Papeete and all his old friends and cousins were gone as well.  On the other hand, about 130 Chinese were working on the pearl farms.  They commuted by power-boat from the village every day and had almost no contact with the Polynesians.  A few of them married and therefore managed to stay for good. 

 

Again the time had come to say goodbye.  Pita and Lucie were even more sad to see us go, which may have had something to do with little Aurora Ulani.  I forgot to mention that there were very few children out there at the pearl farm, as both Pita and Lucie's children are grown up and live elsewhere.  Pita und Lucie told us that we couldn't go for a couple more days.  The reason became clear a couple of days later when they gave us a magnificent piece of art as a going-away present.  Made of black pearls, different shells, sun-bleached and varnished gnarled roots they had made a tree covered with flowers in many colors and shapes.  As if this weren't enough, they gave us a whole box full of pearls to make all kinds of jewelry for Aurora Ulani and Liping.  They absolutely wouldn't take "no" for an answer.  What can we ever offer our Polynesian friends that even comes close? 

 

What for?  For meeting people like Koki, Titi, Teaiki, Pita and Lucie, that's what for.  So far, the privilege of spending time with them was definitely the highlight of our voyage on DHARMA BUM III. 

 

Going out through the pass was a scary affair, although I had studied the tide-tables as well as the pass itself with my own eyes.  The current was so strong that we couldn't have made it on our old boat.  We needed all the power that our two 40 HP Volvo diesels could deliver and it felt as if we were navigating in a fast-flowing river. 

 

The weather spoiled us again and we thought that the name Pacific was the only appropriate one for this ocean.  We are confirmed "doldrums sailors" by now and if there is no wind at all for days or weeks on end, it doesn't bother us one bit.  No engine for us, but peace and quiet on our floating island with our family, good food, good drinks and good books. 

 

~~~~~

 

Coming into Papeete harbor, I thought that I had taken the wrong entrance.  It had changed so much that I was completely disoriented.  Almost no sailboats, gone was the old anchoring area and instead all we could see was a concrete pier with running water and electricity as well as guards patrolling the area.  It was too late to go elsewhere and so we slipped into a spot, although it was far from ideal.  The holding ground is not exactly good and if a swell stands into the harbor it is all to easy to smash with the stern into the concrete pier. 

 

Of course that is exactly what happened and we had to bring out our second anchor by dinghy.  And, naturally, it was a public holiday again.  To make things more interesting, everybody was on strike.  I had just decided that it was time to leave, when I found out that a short circuit (Caribbean workmanship yet again) had completely discharged and probably destroyed my two big starter batteries.  We were stuck in a very expensive and noisy place. 

 

Fortunately an old friend came to the rescue.  Christian Lausan (Hakka-Chinese of many generations in Tahiti) of Yune Tung took both batteries back to his shop and over the next three or four days managed to revive them.  Meanwhile the strike had ended and they had doubled the marina fees.  Retroactively since the fist of June!  That really got my hackles up, as there was no service whatsoever and we couldn't even use the electricity.  At 70 bucks per night this was simply unacceptable and I cleared out right away. 

 

I almost ran all the way to Christians office to pick up my batteries and reconnected them.  A little while later both of my engines were running, not without giving me fright of a different kind first.  A friend threw off our lines, we reeled in the anchor chain and - everything stopped.  We couldn't pick up the anchor!  Time was running as daylight was fading and it still took us an hour.  Finally we found out that a big luxury swan had somehow managed to entangle their monstrous anchor with ours. 

 

When we finally made contact with the airport on the VHF radio, the sun was already very low in the sky.  I had checked the route on our chart-plotter and Liping stood in the bow wearing her Polaroid sunglasses.  Near Motu One things got confusing, as it was impossible to tell which markers belonged to the main pass and which to our route past the airport.  Then there were yellow markers all over which didn't show up on my chart at all.  And in the middle of our route loomed a big sign, which we couldn't read as it was facing the other way. 

 

I didn't feel good rushing into this with more then seven knots and reduced speed.  I had just done that, when Liping shouted "Stop!!!" which was fallowed immediately by a shudder, a crashing sound, a tearing sound, then silence than stand-still.  We had hit the coral-reef, while seconds earlier the water had been more than twenty meters deep.  I feared for the worst, as our mass of almost ten tons had rammed itself into the razor-edged jaws of the coral. 

 

Still, I threw the engines into reverse and applied more and more power.  Achingly slow and with more horrible crunching sounds from below we made our way backwards, inch by inch.  First one side came free and we were sideways to the reef, then the other side came free as well.  We had no time to lose, as the airport was waiting for us to clear the flight path and so we went on with thudding hearts.  I just couldn't believe it. I had sworn to myself that this would *never* happen to me, which is why Liping was standing in the bow.  I was not going to simply rely on my instruments, especially here where the charts often differed from the GPS positions.  Alas...  If I had trusted the instruments, I would have been better off. 

 

The sun was setting when we anchored and then re-anchored right next to the reef.  Brown oil seemed to spill out of our starboard engine directly into the water.  I felt like throwing up.  Would we have to get hauled in super-expensive Tahiti and perhaps even have to spend a lengthy period in the yard?  Since the DRCL had already refused a visa-extension for any Taiwanese passport, would Liping then have to spend even more money because she had to fly away?  My mind was racing and none of the scenarios looked in the least promising.  If only the damage was minimal - but that was highly unlikely. 

 

~~~~~

 

Imagine my surprise when I found out that apart from a little hole and some nasty scratches there was pretty much no damage to our boat.  What's more, the oil obviously didn't come from DHARMA BUM III, but must have been in the water already.  While something would have to be done to fix the damage, we had been tremendously lucky to escape relatively unscathed. 

 

~~~~~

 

Right now we are anchored on the inner side of the outer reef near the Marina Taina.  There is a dinghy dock and we can get water.  A big Carrefour supermarket is in walking distance and "le truck" to Papeete stops there as well.  Our outboard engine, which had not been in use since Panama, started almost immediately and after I cleaned the spark-plugs, it runs just as reliably as always.  Christian has proudly told us how he once steered the great racing-trimaran GERONIMO of Olivier de Kersauson.  He has invited us into his magnificent home and will charge and check our remaining batteries.  We talked with Jimmy Ly again, who has published quite a few books on Chinese culture by now and we spent time with Ms Wang, who came here from Taiwan a very long time ago.  We ate at the "Roulottes" night-market and were remarkably successful in getting spare parts and material. 

 

Our route from here will be not only determined by the cyclone season, but also by Liping's visa-situation and the availability of German embassies or consulates.  I need a new passport and I have to apply for it in person.  Unless I want to go through this procedure every six months, that means I will have to stay in one place for at least two months for the whole procedure.  Either this means that we can't visit as many islands as we had hoped or it means that we will have to spend the cyclone-season in a place where we didn't intend to go.  It is not easy to fit all of this (visa, passport, weather, boat-needs) together perfectly.  We will explore possibilities in New Zealand, Kiribati and a few other places before we make a final decision. 

On we go from Puerto Baquerizo Moreno towards Hiva Oa

Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, Isla San Cristobal, Galapagos Islands, Ecuador  --  8. March 2007

 

It took an amazing amount of effort, time and money, but finally we got the new linear drive for our autopilot.  Don't want to hand-steer for long distances again.  Ever.  We got the old one fixed as well as well as a new control unit in Trinidad, so we should be reasonably okay.

 

Galapagos was interesting, although we didn't do the usual tourist program.  We didn't even go surfing or diving, as we were way to busy taking care of our boat.  Still, over here, the wildlife comes to you and therefore we had numerous encounters with three species of boobies, marine iguanas and sea lions.  The latter became a bit of a nuisance, actually, as they climb on board, even all the way into the cockpit.  They make  A LOT of noise, are very dirty and every time a big one comes aboard you might think that you are experiencing an earthquake.  Not much sleep with those guys around and one of my big fenders got destroyed by their sharp teeth, too. 

 

We are looking forward to the 3000 mile (5000 kilometer) trip to the Marquesas.  It might take us more than a month to get there, as there are only light winds from the East or ESE indicated.  That's okay, though, as we like to take it easy and aren't keen on record passages.  We'll run the engine once every 18 hours for one hour to keep the deep-freeze cold.  If there is no wind, we won't motor but take a little break instead.  Actually, we like those breaks very much indeed!

 

Liping has slowly filled the freezer to the brim again, so that we don't have to give up on our customary DHARMA BUM III culinary standards.  :-)))  Diesel tanks are full to the brim and a few hours ago we bought another 113 liters of filtered water.  I could easily find space for another 200 liters or so, but one shouldn't overdo things. 

 

That's it for now.  Next message should come from Hiva Oa in a month or so.  (World Cruising Routes:  The average length of this passage is about 30 days, although some boats have taken longer and even up to twice that time, mainly those who are not prepared to motor in calm or light weather conditions.)

 

Ciao!

 

Aurora Ulani, Liping & Holger

Panama --> Galapagos --> Easter Island --> Pitcairn --> Mangareva (Gambier Islands) --> Tuamotus --> Tahiti

Ho guys,

 

Monday, 5 February 2007,  we will clear out of Panama to begin our longest passage so far.  There have been a few changes in our plans and the itinerary looks now like this:   

 

Panama --> Galapagos --> Easter Island --> Pitcairn --> Mangareva (Gambier Islands) --> Tuamotus --> Tahiti

 

This way we can't go to the Marquesas, which originally was one of our main goals, but as almost everybody else is going there - The Fleet they call it these days - we decided to forgo that route.  Most of the anchorages are tiny and I can't imagine how the Polynesians feel when hundreds of boats suddenly show up at their doorstep. 

 

We took on provisions, so that we are slightly loaded down at the moment.  Still floating above the waterline for some reason.  We had to find space for 200 liters of tonic water, 60 liters of rum, 40 cases of beer, 120 liters of Chilean wine, 15 liters of engine oil, 10 liters of gear lube, 460 liters of diesel as well as 750 liters of water.  Also we got dried mushrooms and fungi of different kinds, thousand-year-old eggs, dried jellyfish, Chinese pickled vegetables, pickled cucumbers, dried shrimp, canned squid & octopi, salteggs, water-chestnuts, bamboo sprouts, dried and pickled mustard greens, dried radish, sha cha sauce, oyster sauce, bean paste, spicy bean paste, black saltbeans, mung beans and other assorted delicacies.  Of course we also bought lots of juice, coffee, tea, tang, syrup, evaporated as well as UHT-milk and milk-powder, flour, sugar, noodles, rice, black bread, 72 packs of instant noodles from Taiwan, potato buds, five pounds of gummy-bears and other staple foods.  I should not forget the 100 cans of fruit, vegetables and meat.  Then there are ten bottles of rice wine and two bottles of Chinese pineapple-spirits for cooking, yeast, butter, margarine, shortening, baking powder, baking soda, spices and nuts.  Finally Liping reminds me that there are plenty of cookies, crackers, granola, potato chips and other tidbits for the night watches. 

 

Nor is this all, as our deep-freeze is completely empty, and we are planning to fill it to the brim just before we pull up the anchor.  It may sound a bit crazy, but as we know the prices down where we are going, we think this may prove to be a worthwhile investment.  Most of the stuff should last us for up to a year or at least all the way across the Pacific. 

 

I don't think we will spend a lot of time on Easter Island or Pitcairn, as the anchorages there are supposed to be atrocious.  Also, we are not particularly interested in making a fast passage and intend to reduce sail at night, in order to lower the chances of sudden stress and improve our sleep.  I'll be taking the first watch until about 1:00 o'clock, while Liping will take the second one until daybreak when I will take over again.  This seems to be the best solution since little Aurora Ulani sails with us. 

 

We'll be completely out of touch until we find an Internet Cafe somewhere, which will probably in Papeete or some such.  Anyway, I don't think we'll lack drink or food <grin> and if all goes well, it should be a most interesting trip. 

 

Until then best from Aurora Ulani, Liping & Holger  --  S/V DHARMA BUM III